Peril Strait to Sitka

Leaving Warm Spring Bay to go up to Peril Strait

Peril Strait

After 2 nights at Warm Spring Bay we left on 6/24 at 10:55 am.  It was overcast and we had a light wind.   When we left the protection of the bay entering  into Chatham Strait going north we encountered 15 knot winds coming from the South pushing us up the strait with 3 foot seas.  Don hand steered to make the ride more comfortable by finding a path through the waves.  We turned West as we went into Peril Strait and made our way into Appleton Cove.  We dropped the anchor in the calm and overcast cove at 3:50 pm (4 hrs 55 min). 

The cove is pretty and large. We could see other boats anchored at the other end of the cove. I think what is odd about this cove is the lack of trees along the shore. Several other boats came in after us looking for shelter.

On 6/25 we departed Appleton Cove at 7:30 am with low clouds and calm. On our way through Peril strait we had a visit from the Dall’s porpoises. They are in the dolphin family but after checking our book on whales and dolphins they are not Pacific White-sided dolphins. It was Bosun’s first time seeing them so he was super excited. Now he goes out on Bow-Wow watches looking for them.

We had to time our crossing for Sergius Narrows which has strong current and tide rips.  You must be sure to transit the passage only during slack tide.  On this day Ports & Passes current tables showed a slack tide at 10:42 am where the tide was turning from low tide to a flood (high) tide.  We arrived on time and had no issues.  We did get a securite call from a cruise ship that was transiting through so we would know he was coming. 

Sergius Narrows - Notice the channel is between the green marker on land on the left side of the photo and the red buoy in the water on the right. Imagine seeing a cruise ship going through that channel!

We also saw a National Geographic ship waiting to pass through going east after we had passed going west. 

National Geographic cruise ship waiting to enter Sergius Narrows.

Then we started getting ocean swell since Salisbury Sound is open to the Pacific ocean.  The passage down through Neva Straight and Olga Strait to Sitka Sound was gorgeous.  There are so many small passes, inlets and islands everywhere.  Sitka looks out towards the southern tip of Kruzof Island and  Mt. Edgecumbe, a 3,271 foot volcanic cone.   We arrived in Sitka at 2:15 pm (6 hrs 45 min).    

We were able to get a slip in Eliason Harbor which we were lucky to get.  We ended up getting here ahead of schedule (Don’s sister Ann and her husband Gary were scheduled to fly in from Seattle on the 6th of July).  We wanted to be early so Don could troubleshoot and get parts for the watermaker and our diesel heater.  After talking to Shur Marine about our Webasto (diesel heater) they determined we needed a new motor (we had 4,000 hrs on the motor after 4 years of use).  Don got the parts needed flown in so both issues were fixed during our stay.  It’s great having a professional marine services guy on board!

Mt Edgecumbe on Kruzok Island. Looking over from Eliason Harbor.

Eliason Harbor with the moon rising. It’s 11:21 pm on July 1st. Still pretty light outside!

While waiting for parts we did some sightseeing.  Don had lived in Sika for 3 years in the late 90s so he took me to the historical district downtown.  There is such a mix of history here since Sitka was once the capital of Russian Alaska.  Here there is a mix of Russian architecture, art and history as well as Alaskan native art and history. 

We were able to get a cab to take us to a breakfast restaurant at the airport.  We started here thinking we might get a rental car but there were none available.  After breakfast we went outside to get a taxi back to town and found out there were none available either.  We saw a bus and went over but it was a hotel shuttle bus.  We think the driver took pity on us because he offered us a ride downtown.  We found out all of this mayhem is due to the cruise ships that come in to visit.  There can be up to 6 large cruise ships in port at one time!  There are cruise ship ports downtown as well as north of town.  When they come in you can expect all forms of transportation to be disrupted; taxis and shuttles become tour transporters,  rental cars are reserved by cruising tourists, city buses are used to transport cruise tourist who don’t want to pay for a tour to the local attractions and we were told there are no Uber or Lyft drivers. 

We had a fun afternoon visiting the downtown stores and attractions.  After shopping and walking the town we went to the main bus station.  We found out the route we needed was no longer running (we think due to staffing shortages – they are happening everywhere) but one of the other two lines was picking up the route.  The buses were packed but we got back to the marina.  The 4th of July fireworks were celebrated on Saturday the 1st of July so it would be more convenient for the locals.  We had a fabulous view of the fireworks from the boat which started at 11:30 pm (believe it or not it was still not real dark) and the skies were clear.  A perfect evening. 

Walking along the waterfront street south of the main downtown area. There are lots of little islands everywhere out in front of Sitka. A very unique setting. Sitka is open to the ocean but with all the barrier islands it gets protection.

I had gotten a grooming reservation for Bosun on the 6th; the same day that Ann and Gary were getting here.  I called Sitka Shuttle a couple of days ahead to see if I could get her to pick up Ann and Gary.  The following day she said she could.  I then started getting worried about how to get Bosun to his grooming appointment.    The day before his appointment I called the bus company to be sure I had the correct route and he confirmed.  I asked him about taking the bus and he said it might be full due to the cruise boat terminal up north filling all the spaces.  I then texted Sitka shuttle service to see if she could take Bosun and me.  The morning of his appointment I was getting ready to take the earlier bus than I needed just in case thinking it might be best to go early.  We could walk if we had to but 2 miles is long for him; he’s still a puppy.  I was worried and stressed but got a text message 20 min before I was going to leave.  It was the woman from Sitka Shuttle saying she would take us.  She was a sweetheart.  She told me she really want to help me so she went out of her way to take care of us.  She dropped me downtown after dropping off Bosun.  I wandered around some additional shops and walked south of town towards where the pet store was.  Sitka shuttle picked me up and we went and got Bosun.  Apparently he was not a good puppy for the groomer but at least she got most of him groomed. 

When we got back Ann and I went to the grocery store to get the last of the provisioning.  I had gotten most of what  I needed the day before.  We went to dinner at the Channel Club and lucky for us they have free shuttle service to their restaurant; you can understand why they do.  We all enjoyed our dinner and the views out over Sitka Sound.   

As we left Sita we passed several cruise ships that were on their way in.